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Average flying time:
London to Malaga: 2.5 - 3 hrs
Los Angeles to Madrid: 13 hrs (then 1hr to Malaga)
New York to Madrid: 7.5 hrs (then 1hr to Malaga)
Sydney to Madrid: 29 hrs (then 1hr to Malaga)
From the UK: There are regular scheduled flights from London airports to Malaga, Seville, Gibraltar and Jerez. There are charter flights, often at night, and restricting you to 7 or 14-night stays, from nationwide airports to Malaga.
Scheduled fares are generally around £140-200 return, charters from £100-150, less if you book early or very late. Christmas, New Year, Easter and school holidays are usually more expensive.
Many airline companies fly to Andalucia including some low-cost ones.
You could also take a train from London to Malaga via Barcelona (approx. journey time 32 hours); or, if driving, a ferry from Portsmouth or Plymouth to Bilbao or Santander (journey time 24-30 hours) – but don’t forget you still have to cross the whole of Spain (over 1000 km / 600 miles).
From USA and Canada: There are some direct flights to Madrid, which has a high-speed ‘AVE’ train link to Seville (2.5 hours); otherwise you’re best off flying via London. Either way you’ll probably be paying at least US$600 return.
Iberia flies to Madrid from Chicago or Miami, and, using a codeshare with American Airlines, from other US and Canadian airports. It also flies to Barcelona from New York.
BA offers good deals via London, including Washington to Malaga or New York to Seville, both around $500.
From Australia and New Zealand: There are no direct flights to any part of Spain, but there are reasonable connections via London, Frankfurt and other European cities to Malaga or Seville; or, if you’re visiting other parts of Spain, to Madrid and Barcelona.
From within Spain: There are numerous internal flights from most major cities in Spain. Try Air Europa or Spanair.
ARRIVALS: Chances are you’ll be hiring a car (see below) from your arrival airport. If you’re taking transport to a city centre hotel with luggage, your best option is a taxi: around 2500 Ptas (£10) for 10km. Otherwise, from Malaga airport take the electric train to the city (8 km / 20 mins), alighting at RENFE for onward trains or Guadelmedina for the centre; from Seville take the express bus to the Puerta de Jerez for central hotels (12 km / 30 mins).
Departure tax: None (included in flight cost)
Getting Around
Driving: Spain is one of the cheapest places in the world to hire a car: from £12/day. You’ll find rental outlets at all airports and most city centres (normally by the train station), plus at a scattering of coastal resorts. The major firms are MORE. Most of these are represented by Holiday Autos, though it has been known for bookings to get 'stuck' in the system – if in doubt, contact the local supplier (details on your voucher) before departure and check they are expecting you. Make sure everything on the car works before driving off – windscreen wipers, indicators etc – and check for fuel level and any visible damage.
Driving can be a little hectic in city centres (especially Seville), with narrow, twisty lanes and unpredictable one-way systems. But in the countryside, roads are generally empty and reasonably well-maintained. UK, EU, US and Canadian driving licences are valid for up to 3 months. Driving is on the right. Speed limits are 60 kmh (towns) / 90 kmh (country roads) / 120 kmh (motorways) – though you may find yourself being overtaken if you stick to them. Petrol stations are often closed on Sundays and holidays. Hire cars should have the fuel type written in Spanish on the filler cap, but if not, 'unleaded' is sin plomo, ‘diesel’ is gasoil.
If bringing your own car, make sure you have a green card and a ‘bail bond’ in your insurance cover.
Beware petty car theft in cities, notably Seville. Let your car get dirty, leave the glove box open, remove all valuables.
Bus and train: There are good bus and train (RENFE) links throughout Andalucia, with little to choose between them in cost or speed. The former are generally slightly more frequent and convenient (stopping closer to your exact destination), the latter more romantic and relaxing (but many hilltowns have stations several miles below, on the plain).
A high-speed ‘AVE’ train links Seville to Cordoba, and continuing on to Madrid (3 hrs Seville-Madrid). There is also the Talgo 200 train which runs from Madrid-Malaga (4.5 hrs) Madrid-Cadiz (5 hrs), Madrid-Algeciras (6 hrs) and Madrid-Huelva (4.5 hrs).
Regular buses and trains (typically 6-12 daily) link Seville, Cordoba, Malaga, Cadiz, Huelva, Granada, Gibraltar / San Roque, Algeciras. Local services connect these cities to towns, including Arcos and Ronda (beautiful rail journey from San Roque), Antequera (dramatic rail journey from Malaga through the Chorro gorge), Aracena, Jaen, Baeza, Ubeda etc.
You can search train timetables etc on www.renfe.es.
For info on buses running from Malaga, the coach station tel is: +34 952 350061 (located next to the train station).
Taxi: Good value within the cities, and easy to hail on the streets or from a phone. There are taxi ranks at major hubs.
Itineraries
Long weekend
Seville makes an excellent short break throughout the year (except perhaps midsummer), with plenty to amuse first-time visitors and old hands alike. There’s no need for a hire car, though having one would allow you to stay out of town in Carmona (1/2 hour’s drive) or Aracena (1 hour). Or you could fly into Malaga and stay near Antequera (1 hour) or, more ambitiously, in one of the pueblos blancos around Ronda (1-2 hours).
A week
There are lots of possible fly-drive options for a week or so.
An excellent introduction to the best of Andalucia would be to fly into Seville, Gibraltar or Malaga, and spend 3-4 days in the pueblos blancos around Ronda, and 2-3 days in Seville. If you can fly into Gibraltar and out from Seville, you could drive straight to Jimena, the gateway to the white hilltowns, and spend two nights in a sociable little guesthouse there; then drive via Gaucin (visit and lunch) to Ronda, where you stay three nights, either in a friendly Spanish-owned town hotel or a stylish Dutch-owned place just outside. Check out the town and surrounding sights, before driving to Seville for your last two days – time to see the Alcazar, Giralda and some tempting shops. Stay in a classy guesthouse right in the centre, or a sophisticated little manor-hotel in nearby Carmona. You could also do this itinerary by public transport (train San Roque – Jimena – Ronda; bus Ronda – Seville).
If you’ve been there and done that, what about flying into Malaga and heading east to Granada and the Sierra Nevada? First stop would be a delightful mini-palace in Otivar, probably for two nights, to allow you a lazy day by the pool, tennis court or in the gardens. Then drive via the ‘Suspiro del Moro’ pass to Granada, and stay for two or three nights in a restored mansion, giving you a full day in the Alhambra plus time to go shopping. Then head back to Malaga, either via an award-winning country hotel near Antequera, or a rustic pension in Capileira in the Sierra Nevada. Either way you can enjoy two days of fresh mountain air, hiking, riding, cycling - or recharging.
So you’ve covered that as well? OK, how about some remote woods, hilltowns and castles near the Portuguese border? From Seville head via the eye-opening Rio Tinto mines to Aracena, and spend three nights in a family-run, foody guesthouse near Aracena, visiting its caves, church and chestnut woods. Move on via the little-visited city of Huelva (1 night) and back to Seville for the last couple of days – and don’t pretend you’ve seen it all there (the new exhibition at the Museo de Bellas Artes? The Donana river national park?).
Don’t want to drive? The first itinerary above would be equally lovely by train (scenic route from San Roque up to Ronda) and bus (Ronda to Seville). The last would be feasible by bus, given some advance discussion with your hosts in Aracena.
If all that sounds too exhausting, consider a gentle but varied week at one of our hideaways in Gaucin, soaking up the tastes (great cooking), sounds (regular concerts) and sights (take a sketchbook).
Two weeks
With two weeks and a hire car at your disposal, you could see most of the major attractions in central Andalucia. One option for first-time visitors would be a Seville – Ronda – Malaga – Granada – Cordoba – Carmona – Seville loop, which has the advantage that you can start and end in either Seville or Malaga, depending on what air tickets you find. Assuming it’s Seville, start with 4-5 relaxing days in Ronda or Gaucin, visiting the classic white hilltowns and surrounding sights. Then drive cross-country – you could stop off at the Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra if it’s flamingo time – to an award-winning country hotel near Antequera, for 2-3 days exploring the bizarre rocks of Torcal Natural Park and the nearby dolmens. Or, if you prefer coastal scenery, drive instead past the endless resorts of Malaga province to a delightful mini-palace on the border with Almeria – some quieter beaches near here. Either way, your next stop would be Granada, staying for 2-3 nights in a restored mansion, with a full day in the Alhambra and some shopping time in between. Start your homeward journey with a visit to Cordoba’s magical mosque and its tangle of touristy alleys; 1 night is probably enough. The final leg takes you to Carmona, with its Roman necropolis and sophisticated little manor-hotel. You can either stay on here and make day trips into Seville, or move into Seville city centre for 3 final days’ shopping and sightseeing.
Want more action? Then check out the beaches at Tarifa (Europe’s best windsurfing zone), the endless woods around Aracena (perfect riding and cycling country), and the dramatic peaks of the Sierra Nevada (network of hiking trails, mountain refuges and adventure sports operators). Any of these warrants a 2-3 day side trip, tacked onto the above loop from Ronda, Seville or Granada respectively. Or you could have a purely active fortnight with 4-5 days in each. And they all have something to keep the culture vultures happy while you run around: near Tarifa are the ruins of Roman Baelo; Aracena boasts marvellous caves and churches; while many of the villages of the Alpujarras in the southern Sierra Nevada have markets, crafts shops and small museums.
Still not satisfied? Then you’ll have to wait until we’ve explored the last remaining corners of Andalucia, including the Renaissance / Baroque jewels of Ubeda and Baeza, as well as the Cazorla mountain range – we’ve heard that there are some pretty unusual places to stay round here too.
When to Go
If possible, aim to coincide with the freshness, the clarity and the wildflowers of spring. April and May are picture-perfect, March and June also well suited for cooler- or warmer-blooded people. The high peaks are snow-covered, the temperatures lower down are a pleasant 20-30 celsius, and the sea is moving slowly from downright cold (March) to refreshing (June). But Easter festivals may mean availability is limited, so book ahead!
A good alternative is autumn (September / October), when the first rains have refreshed the soil, the crowds have left and the sea is still pleasantly warm. Again, expect 20-30 celsius, clear days and occasional rainstorms – but few wildflowers.
Wintertime (November to March) is increasingly popular among those on a short sun-hunt from northern Europe. The big cities are lively (cosy tapas bars, indoor concerts), the prices and availability are favourable, the air can be delightfully crisp and clear – but be prepared for some heavy rainshowers, especially away from the coast, and some snowfall above 1000m altitude.
Do try and avoid, if possible, the heat, the crowds and the high prices of midsummer (July and August). Temperatures, especially in Seville (Spain’s hottest city), can soar to over 40 celsius; but if you head up to the hills (eg Aracena, Alpujarras), you can expect a more bearable 30 celsius, with cool mountain nights.
Money
Currency: Euro
Exchange rate: approximately £1=€1.35
Changing money: most hotels and restaurants accept credit cards - Visa, Mastercard, Eurocard are the most widely accepted. You can use most Visa, Mastercard and British bank/cash cards as well as US cards for withdrawing cash from ATMs (instructions are often available in English). Most banks will exchange traveller's cheques and give cash advances on credit cards. Banking hours are generally 9am-2pm.
Communications
Time Difference: Spain is 1 hour ahead of Britain throughout the year i.e. GMT+1 from end March to end October, GMT+2 from end October to end March
Telephone: Country code Spain: 34. This is normally followed by a 9-digit number, which starts with a ‘9’ (landline) or ‘6’ (mobile). These same 9 digits are what you dial when calling within Andalucia. International calls made from Andalucia should be prefixed with 00 followed by the country code.
Internet: There are internet cafés in all cities and large towns, and in some smaller villages. Many of our featured hotels allow you to use their internet connection.
Post: Cards and letters to the UK take about a week. Outside Europe can take 2-3 weeks.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, with standard Continental European-style two-pin plugs so an adaptor will normally be required.
Health
No vaccinations are required. There are good, English-speaking doctors and dentists throughout Andalucia, and some British expat doctors along the Costa del Sol. EU citizens are entitled to reciprocal medical care in Spain (take a recently-stamped E111 form), but additional medical insurance is also recommended. In summer, take mosquito repellent and use strong suntan cream. Avoid the midday sun in July and August and drink plenty of water. Water is generally safe but if not fed by a natural spring, is heavily chlorinated. Cheap bottled mineral water is widely available.
Safety / Nuisances
Andalucia is generally a safe and friendly region. But watch out for street crime (car break-ins, handbag-snatching) in the cities, especially Seville at fiesta time. Drive carefully, particularly in the rain, and be prepared for slow vehicles and unpredictable manouevres. There are occasional reports of single women being molested in remote rural areas, but ‘modest’ dress and some vocal Spanish should remove any danger.
With Children
Spaniards love children so you are likely to receive a warm welcome. Babysitters are available at most hotels/villas on i-escape.com. However, the locals invariably take their babies and children with them to dine in the evenings. Traditional Andalucian restaurants are usually very accommodating. Not all hotels and restaurants have sufficient high chairs, so if you own the screw-on type, take it with you.
You shouldn't have a problem with fussy eaters as you'll find plenty of familiar foods in the restaurants and supermarkets (pizza, pasta, yoghurts, simple grilled fish, chicken and meat with chips are readily available).
Nappies, baby food and formula milk can be bought locally but if you have a preferred brand take a supply. If you require a child seat for the car, pre-book with the hire company.
Tipping / Customs
In restaurants, service charge is usually included in the price but people often leave tips as well. 10- 15% is about average. Tax or IVA is 7% which will be included in the bill. 10% is the norm for taxis.
What to Wear
The Spanish are smart dressers. Take light cotton clothes in summer. In spring and autumn you will need a jersey or jacket for cooler days and the evenings. In winter, take a warm jacket and raincoat or umbrella. If travelling in winter to the mountains (Sierra Nevada, Sierra de Ronda, Sierra de Aracena etc), take warm clothes, gloves, hat. Topless sunbathing is accepted on most beaches, nudism less so.
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